Photo Distribution » on photography

what does the f+ mean on a diana camera?

admin — Wed, 09 Jun 2010 08:23:31 +0000

im planning on buying a diana camera and was wondering what the f+ meant, i know a little about photography from school, but never came across this. help please?

The F indicates that it is a Flash model. The regular Diana does not have the plugs to mount a flash unit. The Plus indicates that it is a replica Diana camera made by the Lomography company. The original Diana F cameras were made in the 1960s and 70s, and did not have the interchangeable lenses of the Lomography model.

If you are new to film photography, you should consider starting out with a 35mm lo-fi camera. Why?
1. Lower cost of film. You get more frames per roll, and if you are a beginner, the way to get good at shooting with film, is to shoot lots of it. I find that when beginners use 120 film, it’s higher costs and higher cost of processing keeps them from shooting because they are very much aware of how much each shot costs.

2. Easier to find. 35mm film is much easier to find than the 120 film used in the Holga 120 cameras. I see it in the drugstores, as well as few grocery stores (although that is becoming a much rarer experience).

3. Easier to get processed. Most drugstores and large big box stores like Target or Walmart still have 1-hour labs, but only for 35mm film. You will have to find a local lab to process your 120 film, or send it out.

4. Lower cost of processing. It cheaper to get your 35mm film processed. If you skip the prints and just get the roll processed and put on CD, you can cut the cost down even more. Tip: If you want prints, then you only pay for the ones that came out. This keeps the cost of processing down.

Take a look at one of these 35mm cameras:
Holga 135 or 135BC Similar cheap lens and operation as the Holga 120 cameras. 1 aperture setting (yes, the camera has 2 settings, but they are identical), 2 shutter settings, N (1/100 sec) and B (Bulb setting) tripod mount, cable release socket If you want the corner vignetting like on the larger format camera, get the Holga 135BC.

Sample photos: http://www.flickr.com/groups/holga135bc/

Superheadz Black Slim Devil
This is a clone based on the popular vintage Vivitar Ultra Wide and Slim. It has no exposure controls and no flash option, but with it’s wider than normal lens (22mm) it is capable of taking some outstanding photos.

Sample photos: There really isn’t a good Flickr group for these cameras yet, so the sample photos are from the Vivitar UWS http://www.flickr.com/groups/57074580@N00/

The Diana Mini
Lomography took the Diana camera, and shrunk it down to 35mm format. The Mini, while it lacks the interchangeable lenses of the full sized Lomography Diana+, is still a feature packed camera (at least compared to the Holga and Black Slim Devil). The frame format is unusual. They stuck with the square format of the Diana camera, but it is centered on a standard 35mm frame. The reason for floating the square on the 35mm frame is that be using a standard 35mm format, most 1-hour labs will be able to more easily deal with making scans or prints, since they are set up for regular 35mm film. You can also set the camera to half-frame 35mm, which is 2 vertical 24mm x 17mm images. This translates to 2 images on a standard 35mm frame. Currently a favorite of mine, it lives in my camera bag so it is handy where ever I go. 2 aperture settings, 2 shutter settings, N (1/100 sec) and B (Bulb setting) tripod mount, cable release socket This camera is unusual in that it offers square format,24×24mm on a standard 35mm frame (24×36mm). It also offers a half frame option, 17×24mm frames (it doubles the number of exposures you get on a roll of film)

Diana Mini sample photos: http://www.flickr.com/groups/1232275@N22/

The Diana Mini is nice, but I find that unless I am working close and with a flash, the images tend to be on the softer focus side, to the point of being blurry. You might want to consider the sharper lens of the Superheadz Slim cameras (Black Slim Devil, White Slim Angel or other variant, all the same camera in diff colors). Take a careful look at the sample photos on Flickr to help you make a decision.

Whichever camera you choose, remember that the point of lo-fi photography is to have fun and don’t sweat the details!

For tips for lo-fi cameras, check out my website:

http://www.dianacamera.com/

For how-to videos for Holgas and Diana cameras, check out my youtube channel:

http://www.youtube.com/kaituba

Photography tips for shooting in an aquarium?

admin — Tue, 08 Jun 2010 15:12:58 +0000

I’ll be visiting the Monterey Aquarium soon, and i’d like some tips about how to work my SLR in the dark light. Flash or no flash? How do I avoid glare on the glass? How can I take clear pictures of say–a jellyfish? I understand the art of photography, but I don’t yet understand the science. Please let me know specifically what settings to use. Please describe what the setting would look like on my camera so I know what you’re talking about. Thanks a lot!

i had a similar problem when i recently went to an aquarium… using a DSLR is easier than an SLR… and added to that, the glare on the glass, people in the way, the curve in the glass…

i managed to get some good shots: http://www.flickr.com/photos/martinwalker/sets/72157623643654411/

if you want to check the settings..

most aquariums will not allow a flash… so you have to set the ISO quite high, but you get a fair amount of noise… but that is the trade you have to make…

beginner in photography so someone told me to ALWAYS keep flash on, is he right?

admin — Wed, 02 Jun 2010 21:57:03 +0000

no matter what your taking picture of he said always keep flash on for better results

NO he is not right.

There are times when you need it and many times when you don’t and it can ruin a shot.

What is a good presentation for a Photography portfolio that is being sent to a University?

admin — Tue, 01 Jun 2010 15:48:46 +0000

I am applying to university in the fall, and I need some good ideas to showcase my photography without being…

1. Cheesy
2. Uncreative

I’m doing both black and white, and colour photography.
I’m aware of putting my photos on a black background, and I don’t need that much help with the arranging aspect, I just need to know how to showcase it.

Any ideas?

Well you may want to look into the schools you are planning on attending. Some only want slides sent. Others want an interview and discuss your goals with your images at that time. I know of some that want digital images only. Others don’t really need to see your work until you are actually attending. And some may want you to start with new images and nothing of your older work.

But it is ALWAYS a good idea to have your own portfolio. Something to remember, make you have several and they are always changing and moving.

So, if you have to do slides, make sure you know someplace that does them well and don’t cost an arm and a leg. Most pro labs can now take digital hi res images and print them on slides there. Those really the best places to go that way you can control the color and cropping before sending.

As for the digital images, some people put them on a CD and send them on down. That works for most cases but shows very little creativity. I know of some people who do slide shows of their images. That is a step up but not by much now that there are a million places to go online now to do that, but it is a good place to start for some ideas in that manner. This is an area where I think it is getting to be cheesy just because everyone is doing it and it does not take the amount of time that it once did.

But I am guessing by what you said that you are talking more of prints. I would say the best way is the most contemporary idea of it. Only because you want the images to speak for themselves. So you could do this in several ways.

It also depends on the the size of your images and if you will be getting them back or not. I would avoid the "binding book" type of thing and go with a basic black portfolio and put an image on the right side and information on the left. Also, best to do is make sure they aren’t just printed images of yours. I know for experience that universities don’t want to see a body of your work. Some of this and some of that, they want to see you work more on a series with an explanation or artist statement.

If you have any other questions about it feel free to contact me.

How to get into photography/good beginner camera?

admin — Sun, 30 May 2010 14:50:37 +0000

I really want to become a good photographer because I like art a lot, but i feel like I can never focus well with my camera (I have a Nikon coolpix). I took a non-digital photography class in school a while ago, but I didn’t learn anything, so I don’t really want to waste my time in a class again.
I was wondering what kind of camera would be good to get started on? And any other tips would be much appreciated. Thanks!

Before deciding about your profession I think its always better to ask the older one within your same family and before going for the camera you have to decide which sort of photography that you are going to do with. D-SLR most commonly used by the professional photographers and some other point and shoot cameras also provides both functions like in D-SLR and Compact both in 1 like we have Canon SX10 IS and Canon G10. Those are some good Cameras for the beginner I think. The purchase provides you a mannual book that will teach you a lot about photography and camera functions. You will have to do lot of practical with different lighting conditions and designing if you really want to become a professional photographer or a designer later. Please visit the site

http://mounteverestandtrekkinginformations.blogspot.com/2009_11_01_archive.html