http://www.MaverickPhotographer.com An inside look at a highly successful living room portrait studio and what you’ll need to set up one of your own.
Duration : 0:3:48
Tags: Based, business, camera, home, income, Light, make, marketing, money, Opportunity, photo, photography, portrait, strobe, studio, work
25 Responses to “How To Set Up A Home Based Photography Studio”
ya i agree, this is …
ya i agree, this is one of the few guys on here that actually explains things… kudos maverick!
Great information …
Great information and tutorial video.
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Medium format is …
Medium format is overkill for general portraiture – and digital medium format backs are horrendously expensive. Even a 2 year old 10mp Canon 40D will print to at least A3, which covers most things a customer will want.
Trial and error = …
Trial and error = gimping. That simply takes up time that could be better spent on another look. Having said that, if you’re using flash in a small space, you probably are setting your ISO low and you know what your camera’s flash sync speed is so it really just comes down to choosing your aperture setting. If you regularly use the same set up with clients, you likely have narrowed down the range of usable f/stops so there shouldn’t be a need for much “trial and error”.
Sure, but have fun …
Sure, but have fun shooting two or more weddings this week and have fun processing all of those images. I still love film, but these days a high amount of work is better handled with digital provided you have some good lenses and light.
this is my far …
this is my far fetched dream too……….but I’ll do it in two yrs or so, I want a home based part time thing to do, I hope to do portraits for ppl, as well as semi nude and feild work like weddings….my life feels incomplete, I will do this for me……….u should do it for ur self too
thanks a bunch for …
thanks a bunch for your info! someday soon I’ll have my own studio too
Your videos are …
Your videos are great and very helpful!!
thanks so much!
Super sharp from f4 …
Super sharp from f4 on down; great for walking around. but from 2.8 up to 1.8, background blur is wretched, very busy. The 1.4 has ok blur and the new Sigma 50 even better.
Sound sux, but cool …
Sound sux, but cool vid.
Digital or 35mm SLR …
Digital or 35mm SLR!??!! What about 645 medium format?
shoot a dollar note …
shoot a dollar note at various distances and different framings! it´s got very fine lines so you can check lens and camera resolution very well. shoot it under daylight conditions (the wavelengths are shorter than tungsten wavelengths, so resolution is even higher).
The bigger the max …
The bigger the max. aperture, the larger of an aperture the lens is going to have as a sweet stop. When I have enough light on my 70-200 2.8 I ALWAYS stop down to f4 if I can still get 125th or 250th, anywhere around there. Same goes for a 50mm. When you get your lens take some test shots of different items / people with a range of apertures. It’s a great moment when you take a picture and it’s 10x sharper than anything else!
Check the price on …
Check the price on Canon 50mm F1.8. Great lens, less than $100. Might not last as long, but still a very good lens.
are you mad? there´ …
are you mad? there´s no way a canon, nikon, whatever for 100$ is a “GOOD” lens just because it´s wide open! 1) any lens is sharper when stopped down 2) ANY 50mm is 1.8 or more, because that makes sense to build 3) if you´re going pro or semi-pro you might want a lens that´s far more expensive than 100$. the one thing about a good studio lens is that it´s a prime, not a zoom.
Not necessarily …
Not necessarily junk. I am sure there are some cheaply made lenses that are 2.8 or faster. For instance, I have a Minolta 70-210 f4, and they are just amazing for the price. Very sharp, great Minolta colors. But I do agree with much of what you said.
u r so right!
u r so right!
One of the best …
One of the best advice I got about buying gear: Buy GOOD lenses. The body isn’t as important. Today’s technology is tomorrow’s land fill. High end, fast lenses (anything with an f2.8 or faster, f2, f1.8, f1.4, etc) will hold their resell value longer than any expensive camera body. check ebay
The best bargain in town will ALWAYS be the inexpensive, very common 50mmf1.8 (Canon & Nikon) for 100.00 new. The f1.8 helps in BLURRING out the background.
Anything starting with f3.5 to X are junk.
where do you point …
where do you point the background light? behind the subject? or behind the backgound??
I was like that …
I was like that about a couple of years ago.
I’ve got into photography about 4 years ago and I loved it. I saw other people work and I’m like woah! I suck, lol. But that motivated me to do better. Now I have my very own business and making good money, but photography is my side job, just something I do for fun and get paid for, lol.
But yeah, start off little and get feedback from people to see where you can improve and BOOM, you should succeed.
Actually, i own a …
Actually, i own a Rebel Xti. I’m a beginner and i just started into better lighting and studio work. For entry level shots with the right light and settings, the Rebel does a good job when it comes to studio shots.
Just got me a DSLR …
Just got me a DSLR camera, so I watched this with great interest. Thanks for your help.
Dont start …
Dont start something you “know youre gonna fail”. The only way to really fail is not to try. Do your best and keep going, but dont lose the battle in your head before you even try to do it.